NOW MAGAZINE – APRIL 2006

Fressen 478 Queen W, at Denison, 416-504-5127. Named one of the 14 hippest vegetarian eateries in North America by VegNews and cousin to Kensington’s Urban Herbivore, this verging-on-luxurious lounge uses haute chinoiserie to dramatic effect. Changing daily due to market availability, owner/chef Stephen Gardner’s card is always at least one-third organic and often shows more innovation than those that include meat in their repertoire. Warning: since everything’s made from scratch, so chill. Best: at dinner, start with still-warm house-baked organic whole-grain baguette spread with walnut-spinach pesto and black olive tapenade, stacked with grilled tomatoes over wilted watercress; continue with meaty grilled marinated portobello mushrooms with chimichurri, potato rosti and roasted squash; spinach blini stuffed with warm avocado and corn salsa; at brunch, wheat-free spelt, barley and berry-infused waffles topped with stewed seasonal fruit and organic maple syrup; several organic wines by the glass. Complete meals for $40 per person ($20 at brunch), including all taxes, tip and a glass of organic wine. Average main $15/$10. Open for dinner Sunday to Thursday 5:30 to 10 pm, Friday and Saturday 5:30 to 11 pm. Brunch Saturday and Sunday 11 am to 3:30 pm. Licensed. Access: one step at door, washrooms in basement. Rating: NNNN